Catskill Ice Climbing Conditions

WARNING -ICE CLIMBING IS DANGEROUS!
Please keep in mind that the conditions on this page are very subjective, what may be considered "IN" to some is "OUT" to others, and vice versa. These conditions can change at any moment due to sun, water, temperature, etc. Please use your judgment as the final factor in deciding if you want to climb the route or not. We assume no responsibility for posting this info, the final decision is up to you

For directions to ice climbing location, please see the bottom of the page.

News/Alerts:

Bad news - since they improved the drainage in the road, they put up fencing alongside or RT 23A in the area of Moore's bridge. The space for for vehicles near the bridge by the telephone is now gone. They also fenced in most of the area about 1/8 mile down where you could park about five cars. There is now only room for about three vehicles. If you park there this winter, please park with consideration for other climbers who need a space as well.

LITTLE BLACK DIKE - there was a massive rock fall (2007) that has taken out the lower 1/3 of the corner. That horizontal that you could put a .75 Camalot in is no longer there. The ice is still form in pretty much the same place/way it has in the past.

If you have been out climbing and would like to add comments on the conditions, please send an email to info@alpineendeavors.com

2011/2012 CONDITIONS

Conditions as of 12/26/11

Unfortunately nothing yet... The temperatures have been unseasonally warm providing us with some nice sunny days for rock climbing and some rain as well. We need at least one week of temperatures below freezing to be in business - Stoney Clove is always the first place to climb for the season. If you're searching, check that out first.

Last year we were good to go on December 5, we are currently three weeks behind as of today. Keep you fingers crossed for winter to arrive soon.

DIRECTIONS to Catskill Ice Climbing Locations

• Take the New York State Thruway north to exit 20, Saugerties.
• Now reset your trip odometer to help orient yourself below.
• From the toll booth, make a left at the light onto Rt. 32N and follow Rt. 32N until it intersects with Rt. 32A (6 miles from the toll booth).
• Merge onto Rt. 32A and follow it into Palenville to its intersection with Rt. 23A at the traffic light (8.1 miles from toll booth).
• Bear left onto Rt. 23A and follow it up the mountain into Kaaterskill Clove.
• At 9.3 miles from the toll booth, there is a pull out on the right hand side of the road. (This will fit four cars if you park considerately)
• Right across the creek are the Palenville Corner and Palenville Pillar, below is the
Chasm, and upstream is Jeff ’s Wet Dream.
• At 9.6 miles from the toll booth there is a large parking lot and trail head on the left hand side of the road. This will fit a good number of cars, but it rarely gets plowed—if at all.
• At 10 miles from the toll booth you will come upon Moore’s Bridge.
• At 10.8 miles, just before the “Right Lane Ends” sign, you can look up and left into the
ravine and see Buttermilk Falls.
• At 11.1 miles from the toll booth, you will come to a parking lot on the left, which gets plowed most of the time. This is where you should park for Buttermilk Falls, Wild Cat Falls, Viloa Falls, and the Asbestos Wall. The Asbestos Wall is located across from the parking lot; it has a good number of nice top-ropable routes on it. However, it does face south and gets much sunlight causing it to come and go frequently.
• At 11.5 miles from the toll booth, you will see a sharp bend in the road and the trailhead to Kaaterskill Falls.
• At 11.8 miles, you will come to another parking lot on your left. This is the one to use if you are hiking into Kaaterskill Falls.

• At 15.2 miles from the toll booth, you will come to the traffic light in Tannersville. For access to the Platte Clove Waterfalls, the Devil’s Kitchen, or the Black Chasm, make a left here onto country Rt. 16 (Railroad Ave) and continue until you merge with Platte
Clove Rd. Follow Platte Clove road to the end of the maintained section and park in the
Long Path Trailhead parking lot on the left. Please do not park on or at the end of the
road because the plows need this space to turn around.

• At 17.5 miles (if you did not make the left onto country Rt.16 at the traffic light), you
will come to the intersection of Rt. 214 and Rt. 23A. If you take a left here, you will be
at Stoney Clove, then Phoenicia and Rt. 28.
• Continuing on Rt. 23A will take you into the town of Hunter.

• Continuing farther on Rt. 23A will take you to Lexington. Turning left onto Rt. 42 will take you to Deep Notch and eventually to Rt. 28.