Carstensz Pyramid, 2009 - The Moni Climb - pg1

In the spring of 2006, I (Marty Molitoris) had the great fortune of being hired to guide Carstensz Pyramid. During that trip, I become friends with our Moni porters. One night, they told me I needed to bring my friends back to Papua (their name for New Guinea where we were). I told them I would love to, and hope to be so lucky. After we parted ways and I climbed with Amy and John, we wondered if a Moni or any Papuan has ever been on or to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid. All of the other seven summits have been climbed and guided by natives of their land. While Indonesia governs Papua, and Indonesian climbers have been to the top, we looked into it and from what we found, no Papuan has. What a cool idea, we thought...

This past January and February, I was able to return to guide Papua and this time bring some friends. Our goal in addition to summiting, was to have a Moni tribesman join us on the climb. We wanted to help a native Papuan get on the mountain, climb it, and hopefully summit.

Our trip so far took us from New York, to Los Angeles, then on to Taipei and Jakarta. After Jakarta we flew to Bali, and finally After 77 hours of travel, we arrived in Timika and started our adventure. From Timika we would arrange transport to Zebra wall and then get into the mountains. It was a long journey.

We had a week, and started the trip out with three hikes/climbs to acclimatize. The first hike was the Idenberg - the third-highest peak in New Guinea - the second was hiking into base camp, and the third hiking up the Carstensz glacier - one of the few remaining glaciers on the island, and quickly retreating. Below are some photos with brief descriptions from the trip.

The Idenberg

The approach in to the Idenberg followed many long, parallel gullies up to this col above Idenberg Lake. From here we will drop down and left into another gully that will take us to the ridge and up to the summit (which is up on the top left of the photo)

A better view of the lake and the narrow valley it lies in.

Working our way up the slabs to the top of the ridge.

On the summit! If you look to the right of the frame, you can see Carstensz Pyramid with clouds filling up its' South face (right face).

A view across to the other two highest peaks - Ngga Pulu - the second-highest peak (in where the glacier is in the center of the photo); and Carstensz Pyramid - the highest peak (on the right side of the photo).

The approach to Carstensz base camp

We arranged to be dropped off again at Zebra wall. This time we hired porters to help carry our gear to base camp ( a lot more casual than carrying it all in, like last time).

Watcher - the first tower we see on our way in.

Heading up the first hill, passing one of the many beautiful lakes along the way.

Continuing on toward base camp, the mountains and the climbing possibilities are endless.

One of our porters taking a break along the trail.

Nearing base camp, we have Ngga Pulu and the North Wall in front of us.

Our first view of Carstensz. We had great weather that day - if only it will hold...

One of our porters arriving at base camp

Our whole team at base camp From left to right (back row) Amy, Herman, Larry, George, Jimmy, and Joe. Front row from left to right -(kneeling) Silas, John, and Marty.

Setting up base camp before the rain.

Joe and Silas ready for a hike.

Middle Peak - with our camp below

A hike up the ridge that splits the Meren and Yellow valley was the final activity for the day. This hill really gets your blood going, especially at its altitude.

From the top of the ridge, looking across at the glacier, Ngga Pulu (left of the notch - the summit rock spire is not visible), and the North Wall (right side)

George, Larry and Jimmy enjoying the sun.

Looking down the yellow valley at the route we will climb in a few days. I hi-lighted the approach in blue and the route in yellow.

The Carstensz Glacier acclimatization hike

The second day at base camp, we took a hike up the Carstensz glacier to acclimate and hopefully get a good view of the peak. While it was a good hike, we received a lot of rain instead of the sun we were looking forward to.

All packed up outside our beloved cook tent.

Herman, our Moni tribesman who accompanied us on this trip is all packed up and looking forward to touching and walking on snow for the first time in his life.

Along the way in, the clouds came and went, bringing fog and rain.

The gully we found to take us to the glacier was incredible. It held beautiful pools of water and an easy trail between the tight walls taking us right up to the glacier.

A view down into the gully we followed from higher up.

Herman, hiking like a pro!

At the end of the gully (below East Carstensz) we turned left across glacial scree and ascended up another gully to the toe of the glacier.

Here I am (Marty) getting Herman all set in crampons for his first walk upon a glacier.

Silas - who found the pair of stashed skis at the base of the glacier.

Joe and Larry are heading up along-side us.

Amy and Herman heading up in some rain.

Even though it is raining hard now, everyone is having fun.

Working our way back down the glacier.

Joe and Larry enjoying a break - the altitude puts you out of breathe quickly.

Herman and Marty taking a breather.

Carstensz Pyramid ascent

After the Carstensz glacier, we took a rest day. It gave us a good chance to dry out our gear (it rained for the past 18 hrs straight), and get our bodies well fed for the long day to come.

We left camp at 1:30am and started climbing at 3:30am. By 5:30ish we were able to turn off our headlamps and enjoy the views (and start taking some photos).

Just after first light, we finished the lower rock-climbing portion of the route and were in the upper bowl hiking up to the ridge. Looking up at this shot, you can see the crux notch (right side of photo), the yellow tower we will traverse behind (center of photo), and the summit of Carstensz (left of photo).

Herman and John were enjoying themselves during the climb through the night. Upon arriving at my belay, I took a group shot (see next photo).

I took this photo, and then looking at it on the screen noticed something looked funny. It appears Herman (who liked to wear his helmet backwards) turned it around after putting it on in the night and was indeed wearing it backwards. He even has his headlamp on correctly! We took a moment and corrected it (hopefully for the last time...).

Herman and John working their way up the bowl.

Looking down into the bowl, you can see Silas, Larry and Amy near the large rock. That section of the route was not only steep, but loose with scree. One step forward, three steps back...

John and Herman on the final rock corner to the ridge.

Herman arriving at the ridge after climbing the steep corner. He is excited and gives me the universal "thumbs up".

Silas leading up the corner to join us on the ridge.

A video we have on Youtube of the group on the ridge. What a view!

Silas working on building an anchor to belay Larry and Amy.

On he ridge we are all enjoying the sunshine and the incredible views. Last time we were here visibility was about 20' and it was snowing. Today things look totally different.

Silas working his way up to the crux notch with Larry and Amy

Joe working his way up to us at the notch with George and Jimmy

Continued...

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View our 2006 expedition photos